游記 | 懸浮都市阿布扎比：高處不勝寒

2025-02-24 17:09

來源：澎湃新聞·澎湃號·湃客

原創 MKLA 守望中東

不知道還有沒有人記得……2023年冬天的游記，這個坑到現在還沒有填平。上一篇還是2024年3月21日。新年好呀（笑）：。

最近學業和生活略繁忙，還是先用簡短的覓食日志重新接上阿布扎比系列。

在酒店吃了歐洲和中東風格兼具的自助早餐 (燉豆子和抓飯可能也是我們此行唯一吃到的阿拉伯料理)，趁著冬日暖陽游泳消化一下，然后踏上尋覓下一頓飯的征程。

We loaded our plates with Continental and Middle Eastern choices at the breakfast buffet. (The fava bean stew and the pilaf is probably the only Arab cuisine we would taste during this trip.) As the temperature rises with the winter sun, we moved to the pool to quickly digest the food before heading to the next meal.

^ 這顆流心煎蛋的出品值得肯定。The sunny side up is perfect.

^ za'atar 百里香漆樹香料可頌好評～ And I’d definitely recommend this za’atar croissant.

第二頓早餐？早茶？早午餐？午餐？還是提前的下午茶呢？

小憩片刻，我們在前往阿布扎比總統府國家宮殿的路上，來到康萊德酒店74層300米高空的觀景平臺，又拿起菜單坐下。

阿布扎比市區和海岸線一覽無余。

Is this our second breakfast, morning tea time, brunch, lunch, or early afternoon tea? On our way to Qasr al Watan, we arrived at Conrad Hotel’s observation deck and started reading the menu. Located on the 74th floor and 300 meters above sea level, the cafe offers a bird-eye’s view of the coast and the city.

^ 市區方向 City view

^ 剛剛誕生的人工島 Another island is born

^ 盤踞一方的文化東方 The imposing Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental, Abu Dhabi

^ 我們接下來的目的地 Our next destination

環境寬敞安靜，服務友善。在這樣得天獨厚的景觀位，55 AED 每人的最低消費（2023年），買到美味又大份的飲料和三明治真的很實惠了。

塞入了四種奶酪的帕尼尼 :D 超級柔嫩、超級流心、超級拉絲。火雞肉培根 (看起來和吃起來都更像香腸) 恰巴塔里面的辣味蛋黃醬也很驚艷，選三明治都刻意避開蛋黃醬的人表示竟然毫不油膩，低調又不失魅力地連接了雞肉和面包。

飲料方面，以阿聯酋命名的無酒精氣泡雞尾酒深得我心。甜度和氣泡都恰到好處，有種從摩天大樓俯瞰遼闊海陸的清爽感。

不喝酒的我此前在各種場合除了可樂雪碧咖啡熱茶之外也試過一些去/無酒精特調，都甜膩有余而風味不足。大概因為阿聯酋不喝酒才應該是常態，所以這里的調“酒”師對無酒精雞尾酒投入了更多的心意。

滿柜子的小甜點們已經披上了圣誕的外衣，精致可愛，令令我蠢蠢欲動，可惜胃袋有限，只能留給未來的某次重逢。

Powerful four cheese panini :D gooey, melty, stretchy, mixed with a kick of gorgonzola. Very satisfying. Turkey bacon (tastes and looks more like turkey sausage) ciabatta had a decent spicy mayonnaise. The Emirates sparkling mocktail was really refreshing :D not too sweet, not too gassy. I don’t like alcohol so this is 100% awesome for me, and much better than all the mocktails and fruit punch I’ve had. Perhaps the Emirate bartenders put more efforts to make non-alcohol drinks because this should the norm here.

Pastries all look lovely, wish I’ll save some space in my stomach to try them next time.

Service is warm and attentive. With the beautiful scene, the delicious food (which didn’t shrink in size at the tourist attraction), the 55 AED per person minimum spend is totally a willing pleasure ^^

^ 圣誕氛圍 Christmas decorations

^ 酒店也是阿聯酋高樓群阿布扎比五巨頭中的二號塔。Conrad Abu Dhabi is also the second tower in the five-tower complex called the Etihad Towers.

吃飽喝足，我們步行前往國家宮殿。十二月正午的驕陽也仍有些灼熱。從空中俯瞰時感覺近在咫尺的建筑，此刻仿佛海市蜃樓般遙不可及。

大概大多數人都會乘坐觀光巴士或者出租車吧，人行道上的指示牌都很稀少。

We finished our meal and walked toward the Presidential Palace. The sunshine was still scorching at noon time even in December. The buildings that appeared so near from the sky now seemed as unreachable as a mirage. Probably most people would travel by tourist bus or by taxi anyways. There were hardly any signs on the sidewalk.